OWN INTERVIEW CONTENTS Vol.26 Hajime Sakamoto (instantbootleg director)
At OWN (hereinafter referred to as O) , we would like to ask Hajime to first introduce himself!
Sakamoto Hajime (hereinafter referred to as S): Oh, you've thought up a proper question!
OWell , it's an interview, so of course! What were you thinking?
S: Improvised free talk, etc.
O (Ignoring) Then please go through my profile.
S (laughs) I run an online shop called instantbootleg, which is basically an online select shop. 
O Select mainly sells second-hand clothing. Do you have any selection criteria?
S Rather than just being vintage secondhand clothing, I think the rough standard is whether or not you can use secondhand clothing as a tool to convey a cultural aspect. Having worked in the clothing industry for a while, I feel that the cultural aspect is what's important. It's not so much the clothing itself, but the things surrounding the clothing. In fact, I think that's essential.
I see. I feel like that feeling is really reflected in instantbootleg.
SFor example, even if I were to sell a secondhand RALPH LAUREN shirt, I would clearly explain why RALPH LAUREN is so beloved in the American hip-hop scene. After explaining that, I try to make suggestions like, "How about wearing it like this in Japan?" I feel like I'm really focusing on that aspect of secondhand clothing.
O Vintage clothing is always one-of-a-kind, right? The passion and strength of the appeal of instantbootleg is what makes it so interesting.
S: I write a fair amount of text about each one-of-a-kind piece of clothing. From a business perspective, it's a complete waste. It's super inefficient. But that's because there's something I want to communicate. I think it would be interesting and make me happy if someone who reads my text and buys a piece of clothing from us becomes an introduction to all sorts of things. For example, if I write about a piece of clothing related to music, it would be amazing if that leads them to want to listen to a related CD or record. I'd also be happy if they discovered different clothing at another store based on the knowledge they gained from our shop. Also, I personally think of vintage clothing as being like a "corpse." I chose a corpse because it's packed with information. It's fun to speculate about how it was used and ended up here. For example, why is THE NORTH FACE associated with New York? Its origins lie in the fact that graffiti writers would shoplift spray cans or hide their belongings from the police because the pockets of THE NORTH FACE's xxxx (Mountain Light Jacket) were large and just the right size. That's how these items started to be worn and spread rapidly throughout the city. By determining the age of the item by its quality label or name tag, and then finding photos of it being worn at the time, the dots of information start to connect and form a story. Inferences and guesses turn into proof. That's the way I've enjoyed it, and I'd like to share that with instantbootleg customers.
O Something that can be "talked about."
S : Yes, I think that's what's important. I think there's a lot of people out there these days who are overwhelmed with information and don't know which store to choose. With the proliferation of stores like 2nd STREET and the widespread popularity of vintage clothing, I wondered what it was I could do that was unique. I realized that the "storytelling" aspect was key. I wanted to focus on explaining why vintage clothing is cool. When I first started frequenting clothing stores in Shibuya and Harajuku, the store staff and seniors taught me a lot. Sometimes they even lectured me pretty annoyed (laughs). But I also think that the lessons I learned from them shaped me into the person I am today. So I thought, why not take those very analog experiences I've had and turn them into digital content? That's how instantbootleg started. 
OW: Was there any reason or trigger that led you to decide to go with that kind of approach and expression?
I was working at a company when the COVID -19 state of emergency was declared, and there were a lot of employment-related issues. At that time, I thought that in the future, people will borrow soy sauce from their neighbors, use it to make taro stew, and hand it over to them, saying, "I made a lot, so please take it." I thought that this is probably the kind of era we're heading towards.
O: It's a little hard to understand (laughs). Is it like sharing something?
S : No (laughs). How can I put it? In this day and age, every scene has branched out and subdivided so much, and there are all kinds of people, and it feels like it's become too spread out. People at a level that wouldn't have been in the public eye 15 years ago are now in the public eye. I think there are good aspects to the fact that we live in an age where it's easier to get in the public eye. Nowadays, you can do anything with an iPhone. But back then, I really felt the negative side of that lowered barrier to entry. All kinds of people are just posting whatever they want, and it feels like the information is all over the place. There's so much information out there that it's hard to know what's right or the roots of things. If I were in my 20s now, I think I wouldn't have any idea what to choose.
There are certainly some drawbacks to the lowered barrier to entry.
S : That's right. It was precisely because the barrier to entry was so high that, to put it bluntly, the real thing was there. After taking a lot of detours to get there, I was able to experience a more artisanal worldview and craftsmanship. Going back to my earlier story about potato stew, I think that in the coming age, it's going to be important to have a vibe where you communicate with people you're connected to. People you can trust, and in basic terms, people who won't take your money and run away (laughs). I think that going forward, we'll see a return to a trend like the Showa era, where we value those human aspects even more. This might sound a little naive, but rather than the cost-effective, time-honored approach of big corporations, I want to do things in a more human, down-to-earth way. Connecting with people you find interesting, people with great personalities, and doing things together. Discussing things thoroughly with people you get along with and making decisions is the best thing.
O I see, it's a kind of counter to modern times. So vintage clothing is your tool for that.
S : That's true. It would be ideal if secondhand clothes could be used as a communication tool to connect people and enable them to do business and work together, and then expand that.
O : I'd like to know what your focus is when selecting products at instantbootleg.
When it comes to S Select, I actually have very clear preferences. I keep a close eye on what's popular in general. Then, I carefully consider whether or not I'll do it. I think that for a select shop, what they don't do is more important than what they do. It's about how smartly I can explain what they don't do in my own way. Even if something is trendy, if I think it's really good, I'm going to carry it. But I don't have any weird preferences like "I'm going to stick to this style forever." It's just a matter of feeling, but I think that's what makes me particular about my selections. 
It's not a selection that is based solely on trends .
S : That's true. I also think it's important to naturally connect with brands that interest me and people who are doing interesting things. That's why I never make appointments to meet via email or direct mail.
OI see. So you connect and meet people in analog ways.
S : Exactly. It's easier to talk openly with people you've connected with naturally, even after you start a business. Also, when it comes to selecting vintage clothing, the line of "things I could wear myself" is absolutely important. No matter how trendy or likely to sell, if I choose something I don't think I'd wear, it won't be a good recommendation, and it'll end up sounding a bit fake, so I think that's something I'm quite particular about.
O I see. By the way, where do you draw the line between what you can and can't wear?
S: It's about whether it's something you want to talk about. If you draw that line, I think your promotion will be honest. You can write in text that you'll wear this like this, or that you bought it for this reason. If you just say you selected it because you think it will sell, you won't be able to introduce it in an interesting way or explain it clearly in text. This is just my personal opinion, but I think secondhand clothing stores should be craftsmen. They should be able to make solid recommendations, saying what's good about this, and I think the store should reflect each person's personal tastes and preferences.
O instantbootleg's product introductions are really honest.
S: I'm very conscious of that. That's why I don't make instantbootleg the core of my business. If I did, then, as I said earlier, the lineup would be selected solely for sales. If that were to happen, I think our individuality would disappear, and I wouldn't be able to present my own unique style. Also, as Ochiai said earlier, we speak deeply about one-of-a-kind vintage clothing. I think the strength of instantbootleg is that we select items that have something to say and then speak deeply about them. These days, there are so many stores that just sell things, and I feel that's not good. With the vintage clothing boom, maybe you could sell something if you just listed your size. But I think that's dishonest. For example, hip-hop is booming right now, but if you ask how many artists will still be around in 10 years, I think only the artists who are serious about their work will remain. I think it'll probably be the same as the hip-hop boom we experienced in the 2000s. Those who signed with major labels and just jumped on the bandwagon are just living off of the trend. That's why I'm doing my job honestly and steadily.
So , I'd like to hear what the appeal of vintage clothing is to you, Hajime!
SFirst of all, secondhand clothes are one-of-a-kind items that no one else has. Secondly, secondhand clothes aren't just secondhand goods. It's like the difference between hip hop and rap. Hip hop is a culture, and rap is a singing style. Idols rap really well, but that doesn't necessarily make them hip hop. In the same way, secondhand clothes aren't just secondhand goods, they're a culture. I've always thought it was incredibly attractive to be able to get such cultural items without anyone else having to wear them. Another reason is that you can simply buy them cheaply. I think secondhand clothes are also a part of youth culture, so I think the price is also very attractive. 
These two charms are perfectly reflected in instantbootleg.
S : Yes. Rare items inevitably end up being more expensive, but we try to make items that can be sold cheaply as cheaply as possible. We also have a well-stocked line of "general second-hand clothing," rather than so-called vintage items, so please keep checking our website.
OI think you select a lot of things from past cultures, but is there a line you draw when you will or will not do something with them?
S: It's simply whether you thought it was cool. For example, when Kyary Pamyu Pamyu was popular, there was a word in alphabets called "HARAJUKU." In another 10 years, vintage clothing will be promoted as a culture. It will be the beginning of a genderless culture, and I think there will be people who will promote it with colorful color combinations. But I don't do that. That's because I didn't think it was cool at the time and wanted to imitate it! I think that delicate line leads to the individuality of your selections. Even with 90s items, Tommy Hilfiger wouldn't do it, but NAUTICA would (laughs).
O It's so exquisite (laughs). But I guess you can kind of understand it.
S : I get it (laughs). I think if you have that kind of cultural thing, or a kind of common language like rock or hip hop, you can understand this feeling. I think there are some aspects that you can't grasp unless you have the background, but I think I want to present those aspects in a way that will be conveyed.
Now , I'd like to talk about OWN. We did a pop-up together last summer. Could you tell me how you first found out about OWN?
S: It was initially taught to me by Ichikawa, the former editor-in-chief of Warp . This is just my personal opinion, but most eyewear brands have an industrial image. They seem to focus on the product and promote it. In comparison, clothing has a more organic feel in terms of the materials, and I got the impression that OWN was being promoted with a sensibility similar to that of a clothing brand.
OWhat part of it gave you that impression?
S OWN creates a solid look every season, shoots on location, and you can see that they put a lot of effort into the locations. It shows that they're not slacking off and are doing what they have to do. And then there's the way they promote their Instagram. I think the way they put out their work on Instagram is interesting. Their posts are nicely done, but their stories seem like a personal account and not pretentious (laughs).
Thank you (laughs).
S OWN's interview content even includes an interview with me (laughs). I also like glasses, and after checking out their Instagram, I was interested in their products, but I also felt a connection with them because of this promotion that other glasses brands don't do, as well as the music topics they post.
Among instantbootleg's mainly vintage clothing , how do you hope people will enjoy OWN?
S Glasses and sunglasses are stylish, aren't they? They simply make you feel good, and they're simply fun. They can completely change the impression you give off, and the term "eyewear" is a good one, as it's like "clothing for your eyes." I hope people will enjoy thinking about what kind of glasses or sunglasses they should wear. To be honest, no matter what kind of glasses or sunglasses a person wears with what kind of clothes, it looks good if they wear them with confidence (laughs). Also, if you're aiming for a super-standard cool look in men's fashion, I think that after a plain white tee and jeans, it's eyewear, not a hat.
Now that you mention it, it's a pretty important fashion item.
That's exactly what happened with S. Oshiba (Yusuke). As a skater, he often wears simple fashion such as Dickies and band tees. Adding OWN eyewear to his outfit makes him look even cooler and more stylish. That's why I think the selection of glasses and sunglasses is so important in a shop. I think OWN fits in well with the instantbootleg selection.
O I see, thank you! So, is there any information about upcoming instantbootlegs?
A new album will be released this summer!
OYes , yes (laughs).
S (laughs). I'm thinking about adding more shirts to my selection in the future. There are a lot of places selling expensive shirts these days, but I'd like to be able to select shirts that aren't too expensive and are just the right balance. Short-sleeved shirts might be good for the summer! Also, I've been selected for a "100 People of Japan" type project by a certain famous outdoor brand, so I think I'll be able to share more about that project in the future. Please keep checking back!
[INFO]
instantbootleg
instagram @hajime0722
